My uncle came once again to pick me up, but this time we traveled together to the city of Haarlem. There was a fine mist or haze permeating the Dutch landscape, which gave the distant windmills an almost mystical appearance.
Uncle Jean wanted to show me the heart of old Haarlem, which is apparently considered a miniature version of Amsterdam. We made our way on foot from his apartment to the historic areas. I really feel the best way to get to know a city is by walking around as much as possible, and Haarlem confirmed that yet again.
The city’s old streets are narrow and paved with the now familiar cobblestones. Old house with alabaster/plaster reliefs decorating their walls loom overhead, the structures leaning a bit with the weight of time.
We navigated the alleys and found our way to the museum dedicated to Franz Hals, the Dutch painter famous for his ability to capture realistic facial expressions. His heyday was in the 1600s, so if you’re curious about this artist and era, the museum is certainly worth a visit. All of the exhibits are well designed and thorough.
Haarlem’s main square is, of course, near the Grote Kerk, otherwise known as St. Bavokerk. Click here to view a 360° shot of the cathedral’s interior—super cool, do it! The stone structure was built starting in the 1400s.
Pictures can convey a lot about what it’s like to be in a certain place, but it’s much more complicated to explain how it feels in the space. Grote Kerk is very cold and the acoustics magnify sounds in sometimes unexpected ways. Beneath your feet are many ancient (and more modern) graves, the carved slabs covering them uneven through centuries of wear.
The rest of the day we spent drinking Belgian beer, eating pastries, exploring more of the hidden byways of the heart of Haarlem. That evening, we ate a delicious dinner in a historic restaurant, Grand Café Brinkmann, that has been in business for over one hundred years. It’s worth a visit next time you’re in Haarlem!
