Notions Of Change

A Solar Eclipse

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We packed into an RV, friends—old and new—heading to nearby Wyoming to see the full solar eclipse. I have to say that particular United State of flatness and endless brown has never done anything for me from an aesthetic perspective. Ever. Until this experience.

My roommate planned things out beautifully and determined that we would find a flat place with no one around to view a total solar eclipse from. Mission accomplished:

We settled in for the night, mostly prepped for the excitement the next morning.

After breakfast, I didn’t even notice when the moon started its journey to overlap the sun because it wasn’t visible in the sky—except if you used your solar glasses. I’m embarrassed to say I spent so much energy over the next hour or so nervously trying to capture the experience with my camera that changes sunk in only gradually.

It was the cold that really was noticeable, even before our eyes detected that the light was waning. Over the course of our viewing, the temperature dropped around twenty degrees, which is startling in such a short period of time. Earth receives so much energy from the Sun and our star’s effects are never more clear than during such an eclipse. Later the light took on an almost old, parched quality, much like our surrounding landscape. Even near totality, the amount of light and warmth coming from the Sun was staggering.

And suddenly it was twilight all around, a 360° “sunset.”

Picture taken by Dale Hopkins.

I was so focused on the photography that I nearly forgot to look at the totality with my eyes.

It was so much more stunning than any special effect because I was there to witness the universe show a little more of her glory for a few moments. It was an almost spiritual experience. (We could even see Baily’s Beads in our photos, an effect created by the light shining through the moon’s valleys and mountains along its edges!)

And then the sun began to show again, and the sky lit up from a swift dawn to midday, and the soil smelled like warm summer once more . . . and it was over. There was no “again” for the eclipse or its viewers.

Over the traffic-stacked drive home, I made a pact with myself to travel much farther to see the next totality in seven years. For that one, I’ll be present and less focused on documenting the experience through photographs. Promise.

Barcelona, Part 3

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Circa 1352
Circa 1352
The day before yesterday, I made my way out to Montserrat, a low but almost vertical mountain in Catalonia. Visitors take the train from Barcelona and then a rack railway to Montserrat Monestary. The abbey is located on a sheer part of one of its cliffs. Visitors can visit the audio/visual presentation and museum, the basilica, as well as numerous stores, restaurants, and even a hotel (virtual Tour). Truthfully, these were not terribly interesting in comparison to the mountain itself, which is dotted with religious structures and ruins going back centuries, the area having attracted the devout for over eight hundred years.

I took the Sant Joan funicular up to the top, the Natural Park of Montserrat—what a steep ride! Full disclosure: I did not google what to visit here or where to walk, preferring to experience via exploration. Perhaps not the smart tourist thing to do…but it felt right. And I had an absolute blast, crawling up sketchy trails that were first laid five hundred years ago or more, discovering ruins, and photographing beautiful scenery! Barely anyone passed. It was like being a kid, finding adventure around every corner. Later research described the area I explored as the Hermitages trail or medieval hike. Fun stuff! There is so much on that mountain to see, but I contented myself with the hours long quest, even finding (and leaving) a shard of old pottery. Montserrat is a special place, go visit!Continue Reading

Barcelona and Sitges, Part Two

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IMG_2826The stay in Spain has continued to be awesome, barring three days of recovery from food poisoning. (Note:always make sure that at least one person knows the address where you are staying. You never know if a medical emergency will hit.) 

Some of the discomfort I experienced because of the cultural shift from northern Europe to southern has alleviated. Not knowing much Spanish has stopped being as intimidating. It’s amazing how much you can understand solely through gesture and expression. Several times I’ve asked for directions from friendly locals, and we somehow find a way to understand each other and answer questions in our respective languages.

Culturally, there is an underlying feeling of separateness here from the rest of Europe, noticeable in the subtle ways that many Spaniards and Catalonians refer to other parts of the Union. When I asked, someone explained that it’s only been several decades since Spain opened up following Franco’s rule and, as a result, it’s still integrating with the other countries. 

IMG_2844My friend Alex, restaurant critic extraordinaire, has been showing me around the city and taking me with him when he goes to review a restaurant. It’s been a lovely culinary tour of sorts! If you speak Spanish, check out his blog, Yummy Barcelona. You’ll get the scoop on good places to eat and drink. Some of my favorites have been Bacoa, Chocolate Box, Caj Chai, La Fianna, and Mian.Continue Reading

Barcelona, Part One

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IMG_2915I love the sound of Barcelona in the early morning. Not very many people are up yet, the vehicle horns are not as loud and irritable, and the birds are conversing with each other. I have been here for almost a week and am sad to report that I haven’t been able to explore the city nearly as much as I would have liked because of a spat of epic food poisoning that struck on Wednesday, from which I am still recovering now, on Saturday. Vomiting, diarrhea, cramping, pelvic/back pain, exhaustion…you know, the fun stuff.

But there have been many pleasant moments too! The apartment rental from Airbnb is a little efficiency penthouse suite with a patio that is larger than the interior space. Between the sun-warmed terra-cotta tiles, the white washed walls, and the dried grass privacy liner secured to the railing, it really feels like a Mediterranean hideaway in the middle of the city. Every day it’s a pleasure to sit outside while working and eating breakfast in my pajamas. And there may or may not have been some nude sunbathing. Ahem.

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